The ladies mechanical watches are rare now. But in 1960s, OMEGA manufactured nice ladies wathces with the in-house movements.
This time I try to make the representative ladies model Seamaster using
all genuine OMEGA parts and NOS deadstocks.
I collected the genuine parts from the net auction eBay.
Genuine dial
Small dial diameter 21mm. NOS. |
Genuine hand
hands for cal.640 series |
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Case parts
Deadstock with sharp edge. 25mmX30mm |
Caseback
Sea-horse emblem |
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This is 17 jewels; the middle class. But it is easy to regulate accurately because of high beat,21,600bph.
OMEGA Caliber 683
Original package NOS deadstockdiameter 17.5mm, 17jewels, 21,600bph(5.5Hz), 40h power reserve |
680 series specification
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Because it is the stock the oil must congeal. Above all overhaul the movement.
Automatic winding bridge | Release the mainspring | disassembled wheel train |
Take the movement apart.
Clean the parts in benzine pool with the ultrasonic cleaner and dry them with the selvyt cloth.
Ultrasonic cleaner | In cleaning | Wipe with microfiber cloth |
Assemble the wheel train and lubricate the pivots in jewels. Don't rublicate the pinion and the escape wheel.
Main plate | Barrel and wheel bridge | Asseemby without Balance cock |
Assemble the keyless work. Lubricate the lever pivot and the opration points contacted with another.
Dial side | Clutch, Set lever, Widing pinion and Stem | Moebius oils |
Place oil to the center of the flat surface of the cap jewel. Set the inverted
cap jewel to the jewel housing and install them with spring.
This is the anti-shock unit.
Jewel housing and Cap jewel | Place Anti-shock assemblies |
Assemble the calendar mechanism and palce them.
Calendardate ring | Calendar plate with Lever |
Place the balance cock at the end.
Complete the overhaul of the micro movement of under 20mm in diameter.
Attach the new dial to the movement and fix with small screws of the side.
Before placing the hands, operate the stem when the calendar switches.
And then press the hands at midnight.
Keep good clearance between the index, hour, minute and seconds hand.
original genuine dial |
The movement is located with the wide plastic ring.
The stainless steal case is characteristic oval and beautiful. I have the
plating factory gild it.
Movement ring | Gilding case |
Locate the plastic glass with the bezel. Insert the stem and place the automatic rotor.
Automatic rotor |
I use Microset Watch Time. It is veryt usable to check the rate on my PC screen.
Befor | After | Microset |
My adjustment got following result,
Position | Before | After | ||
Daily rate | Beat error | Daily rate | Beat error | |
Dial down | -70.8sec/day | 4.8ms | +10.2sec/day | 2.1ms |
6 o'clock up | -68.1sec/day | 4.6ms | +8.3sec/day | 1.6ms |
3 o'clock down | -75.6sec/day | 5.4ms | +11.1sec/day | 1.3ms |
I selected the lether strap made of Teju. The teju leather is exclusice in Iguana, Lizard.
Indivisual fine pattern goes well with the nostalgic watch. Red brown color
also matches the gilding case.
Leather belt | Caseback | Attach the belt |
On the caseback, there is the trademark of Seamaster, Seahorse emblem.
High water resistant case is formed the snap back and the plastic gasket.
This watch looks powerful but its diameter is only 25mm.
I observe it to be high quarity because its case has the the sharp edges
and a precise conbination of satin and polish surfaces.
The transparent OMEGA mark can be looked in the center of the plastic glass.